We returned to Pipistrelle over a month ago now, and it’s so good to be afloat in 2018.
The blog lives again with a full account of what’s been going on to follow soon. Meanwhile, a few photos to whet the appetite.
We returned to Pipistrelle over a month ago now, and it’s so good to be afloat in 2018.
The blog lives again with a full account of what’s been going on to follow soon. Meanwhile, a few photos to whet the appetite.
Having chosen to store Pipistrelle for the winter at a yard in Southern Denmark close to the German border at Flensburg, we began our cruise through the Danish islands. The plan was to sail from Sweden and reach Søholm Yacht Services at Nybøl near Egernsund as quickly as possible, but with some stops on the way. In fact it took us longer than we thought because of … yes, wind and weather!
Leaving Marstrand in Sweden on a cool damp morning, we sailed the 35 nm to Østerby on the island of Laesø which we had last visited on Overlord 14 years ago (that same trip mentioned in relation to Norway). Unsurprisingly we didn’t recognise the marina, but do have vague recollections of going alongside the fishing harbour. No matter!
By now we were used to paying our fee by credit card at the nearby machine. Boat length and length of stay tapped in, a coloured ‘parking ticket’ appears, is taken back to the boat and displayed by being looped round the guardrail. Scandinavian efficiency!
Next day which we knew was going to be dry, we hired bikes to explore the island and ended up cycling 26 km! Not bad going, but it’s along cycle paths, all flat, and there was no wind. We had a look around Hedvigs Hus – one of the unique dwellings dating back to the 1600s with its thick seaweed roof. Why seaweed? With no trees or straw on the island at the time, the inhabitants used their initiative, found seaweed and driftwood on the seashore and built their houses accordingly. There are now under 20 left on the whole island.
Lunch was at the Laesø Caféen in Byrum where we tried the typical Danish fish dish of ‘Stjerneskud’, which was delicious. Thus fortified, we had a look at the church dating from the 1200’s which was unfortunately closed, and then set off again to the Laesø Saltworks.
The island produced salt since 1008, but ceased in the 1800’s and it wasn’t until 1991 when a seething hut was reconstructed, and salt production began again. It is possible in Laesø because a very salty brine is formed some 2 metres down in the sand, which has a salt concentration of 15% compared to 2-3% in the Kattegat. Our visit gave us the opportunity to see the liquid bubbling away in stainless steel tanks heated by wood burning ovens. Interestingly the stainless has to be of the highest grade – 316 – the same quality used on Pipistrelle! This is manufacturing on a small scale but it is gaining in popularity and becoming known as the ‘gourmet of salts’. We were surprised to find a delegation from the Lion Saltworks Museum in Northwich, UK, having a serious meeting to learn how to emulate what has been done here, and begin making salt again in Cheshire.
After one more day on Laesø (when it rained), we set off to Grenå, where we stayed for one night and then sailed on to Ballen on the east of Samsø before heading to the small marina of Reersø which is on the west of the island of Zealand with Copenhagen on the east, overlooking the Great Belt. This is one of the three Danish straits separating the main islands that make up the country. We were met by our friends Lisbeth and Christian (their yacht is ‘Pura Vida’), which was just as well, as the marina is not designed for yachts of our size, but we managed to get alongside safely in a protected spot sheltered from the forecast strong winds.
Reersø used to be an island before the causeway was raised above sea level, and it is a delightful spot, with many old thatched cottages which reminded us of home, and walks along the coastline and across farmland. We also had a very enjoyable evening of Danish ‘hygge’ at Christian and Lisbeth’s beautiful home, overlooking Reersø Bay.
We weathered the named storm ‘Aileen’ which caused damage in the UK, and at the first opportunity, set sail south down the Great Belt, as we were running out of time to get to Søholm. Inevitably the forecast was not strictly accurate, and after a good start with sunshine and favourable current, we then had head winds, and found ourselves dodging supertankers and other shipping using the two channels available. Power does not give way to sail here!
We finished up motoring for the last 10nm, and then had a heavy rainstorm so we stood off before making our entrance to Spodsbjerg Marina, on the island of Langeland. Once inside we were able to tie up comfortably, in a position which would provide an easy exit. This marina predominantly caters for leisure fishing boats, and a rally had been arranged for the weekend we were there. The weather was not conducive to continuing south, so after getting ourselves organised, we enjoyed a walk along the coast and inland around the many fresh water lakes.
Having planned to make Bagenkop on the west of Langeland the next stop, we left Spodsbjerg, rounded the southern tip of the island in warm sunshine. Along with lack of adverse wind and current, it was a no brainer to continuing west to Sønderborg, meaning a full day of sailing, but then only a short hop to Søholm.
We were able to moor alongside the quay in the Allsund Channel, have a look around the old town and 12th century castle and naturally buy final provisions to keep us going on arrival at Søholm, which is only 3 hours away.
The lifting bridge at Egernsund into the Nybøl Nor opens hourly each day from 08.30, so we left Sønderborg hoping to arrive in time for 12.30, but we knew it would be tight. We arrived 10 minutes late, but the staff could see us from a distance, so delayed the opening for us to catch up with the other yachts going through! How amazingly helpful!
The yard is only some 20 minutes from the bridge. Søholm run a very professional operation, specialising in the storage of boats both inside their heated and unheated halls without masts, and outside with or without masts in place. Mads Søholm was waiting to squeeze us into a slot on their waiting pontoon, and took our lines.
Almost immediately behind us we found the windfall yacht A.R., previously known as ‘Lively’ when the British owned her, and now renamed A.R. In Michael Cudmore’s book, ‘The Windfall Yachts’, she is variously described as being 125 or 150 sq mtrs! She is now in beautiful condition and owned by a German couple for the last 35 years. She had her masts removed and is stored indoors. We look forward to meeting the owners again when we return – the talk will obviously be of A.R., Overlord and Sea Scamp among others, all of them windfall yachts! Here a few photos …
From then on, we were extremely busy preparing Pipistrelle for haul out. We had opted for storage outside, with the mast in place. For the first time we had to winterise the boat for sub zero temperatures, and rain that might freeze. This not only meant replacing the fresh water in the generator and Yanmar with 50/50 antifreeze, but also the seawater cooling, together with the air conditioning, now used for heat, the watermaker using Glycerine, and the two heads, with the grey tank being totally emptied. A lot to think about, together with canvas covers on deck. There was then the multitude of other jobs from organising car hire (from Flensburg), accommodation ashore (in nearby Gråsten), flights home (from Hamburg), eking out and eating all the remaining perishable food (anywhere), washing and drying machine loads of laundry (off site) and cleaning the interior. We lifted at the end of the first week, when we moved off Pipistrelle, and throughout, we found the yard incredibly efficient, helpful and careful. Our thanks are due to the team of Mads, Flemming, Susanne and Festus.
Pipistrelle is now resting in this tranquil spot until next May, when we will return to Denmark to take her on another journey!
Making landfall in Västra Göteland in our own yacht towards the end of August was very special. Our first cruise in the area was in 2003 (yes, the Overlord trip already referred to!). Our friends Ingemar and Ann-Britt had invited us to sail with them on Lady Ann III on two separate occasions, and it was with them that we really discovered this marvellous sailing area with its granite rock formations and ever-changing scenery.
See our blogs from 2014 and 2016:
Hunnebostrand has much to offer in the summer season with plentiful marina berths of all sizes, as well as anchoring. Off the boat, there is good hiking in many different directions. As with Norway, our arrival at the end of August heralded end of summer so we saw the little shops and boutiques opening at the weekend only. Ingemar and Ann-Britt’s summer house is nearby at Ulebergshamn, which for us was a dinghy ride away, and we were invited for the evening feasting on shrimps ordered and collected straight from the fisherman! After more socialising with them and in and around the (private) marina where we had been fortunate enough to have been offered an unoccupied berth, we felt we had to move on southwards while the weather was still reasonable.
Leaving the nearby Sote Kanal behind us, which we had been through a couple of times before, so felt like old hands, we headed for Lysekil with its imposing church, an easy 17 nm sail away. Again, thanks to our visit here last year, we knew the ropes and went straight into the less crowded and more protected Fisherman’s marina. Next day, Sunday, along with many local sailors enjoying pleasant weekend weather, we threaded our way between the islands to the west of Orust before heading out to more open sea and approaching Marstrand from the northwest. Compared to the last time we were here it was quiet and we were even able to go alongside in the marina where we stayed overnight.
Unfortunately by evening the weather had closed in. It turned cool, damp and windy and we wanted to go out for a meal! Eventually, we found the one and only restaurant that was open ‘Hamnkrogen’ – across the channel on the opposite island! The frequent ferry service made access easy and we were there within 10 minutes!
After just a week in Sweden we slipped our lines, took down the Swedish courtesy flag and set sail for Denmark.
An Overlord trip brought us to Norway in 2003 when we explored the Oslo Fjord, so in Kristiansand we decided that, not having sailed in this area before, and without any immediately pressing deadlines, we would spend a few days cruising up the east coast. A good decision as it turned out, before heading across to Västra Göteland in Sweden which we know and love.
Strangely to us, the season here appears to end in August! We arrived on the 22nd and already everything seemed closed down. Few boats in the marina, office closed, no machine issuing tickets (the norm in Scandinavia) and all very quiet, so we had a free berth and power!
The next day in gloriously warm sunshine we slipped lines but had to motor to Revesand near Arendal where we anchored for the night. Quite a pretty spot but again no one else around apart from a Wednesday evening racing fleet (worldwide that event!). Fickle as ever, the weather changed … still no wind but rain!
Nonetheless we set off, taking the inshore route under a 25m bridge (our mast height is 22.5m), past an oil rig under maintenance, out to the open sea again before reaching the charming village of Lyngør nestled amongst a group of small islands and moored alongside the only pontoon.
A grey afternoon …
A grey afternoon, but we went to the only small grocery store which was open, to be served by a Portuguese student! Walking around the village was interesting but the following day on the recommendation of a Norwegian sailing couple, we motored a whole mile to do something we’d never done before … mooring Scandinavian style, against a sheer rock face!! It is difficult to get more idyllic than that, especially as the weather decided to show itself off at its best!
Again, on recommendation we headed North once more towards the island of Jumfroland or ‘the island of the Virgin’ in Norwegian. Close to the mainland at Kragerø, it being the weekend and fine, it was busy. We managed to go alongside on a sort of hammerhead and in fact stayed for two nights. Paying at the ticket machine took some working out and once we were ‘official’ we set off on a walking expedition. As the island is small and flat, it was easy terrain.
It is fascinating, as it was originally part of the seabed, and created as a glacial moraine, which then rose from the seabed. Consequently sizeable areas are comprised of large round stones, which obviously do not support any vegetation, in contrast to some extremely fertile areas. In the middle of the island there are two big lighthouses, one old, one new, that can be seen all round for a considerable distance. We enjoyed our walks, the north eastern end comprised of solid rock and a pebbly shoreline, and the south western end having pleasant beaches. The whole island protects the Kragerø archipelago which in itself is an ideal sailing ground with so many sheltered islands. How often on our travels have we come across areas we would love to explore further, if we had known about them earlier and had built in considerable ‘buffer’ time. This was one definitely of them, but unfortunately time was not on our side!
With a good weather window for the passage to Hunnebostrand, Sweden, we left the small marina to anchor in the lee of the island, making it easier for an early departure the next morning (ie fenders and mooring lines already safely stowed, just the anchor to weigh!).
The weather gods were with us, and we had an enjoyable if chilly 60 mile day sail with the wind on the beam, arriving late afternoon to continue our cruise in the land of the Vikings.
Starting with our departure from Inverness Marina on Thursday 17th August, this turned out to be no ordinary passage.
With 80 nm ahead of us to reach the busy fishing port of Fraserburgh in a day sail, and slipping lines just before daybreak, we plugged the current through the narrows between the Chanonry Point Lighthouse to port and the fortress of Fort George to starboard. Similar to the Devon coastline and so different from the Scottish west coast with its cuillins and munros, we sailed past Lossiemouth, Banff, Macduff, and finally to ‘FB’ where a hammerhead pontoon had been reserved for us in the small Marina amongst assorted fishing vessels. Why Fraserbrough? To take delivery of the boom vang that had been under repair in Falmouth (long story) and we’d had couriered to Scotland. It was also a good way to break down the North Sea crossing.
The day started fine and ended dry but cool. We had made good time though motor sailed most of the way. Not so the following morning! It rained solidly and blew the whole day. A very bleak place in no sunshine even in August – hard to imagine in winter. Going ashore for a few provisions involved donning full wet weather gear and boots!
As predicted Saturday dawned with not a cloud in the sky and a westerly wind. The Fraserbrough world looked brighter. Good time to leave on the 400nm passage to Sweden – 3 days at sea.
Day 1 was lovely sailing weather, but we stowed the mainsail, and sailed under genoa alone – sunshine, a puffin on the water, a pod of dolphins swimming with us for hours and a superb sunset. We also spotted 5 floating wind turbines, that were not shown on Navionics, so passed the info on to Navionics, who have now updated their North Sea chart, and expressed their thanks. However, the BP Forties Oilfield was shown – the brightly lit platforms an amazing sight at night!
Day 2 was grey, rainy and boisterous. 30kn winds, rolly, heavy seas with 3m swell and unpleasant outside. Thankfully the Wauquiez pilot saloon came into its own again – with all round visibility we can run watches from below, only needing to venture into the cockpit to trim sails. So we were ‘inside’ for Day 2, watching waves crashing over the deck and into the cockpit.
Day 3 though bright, brought with it little or no easing of breeze until the afternoon. We could see the Norwegian coastline all day about 20nm to our north, with Kristiansand to port. Towards evening the wind died and we relaxed a little with another glorious sunset to the west. Now in the Skagerrak we looked forward to a pleasant last night at sea with about 100 nm to run.
An ominous dark sky developed. In the distance, it lit up at regular intervals – sheet lightning followed by bright forks hitting the sea. Call us paranoid, but having been subjected to three strikes, we were on our guard! Radar on, we watched, changed course away from the lightning, then quickly decided our best and safest option was to motor back out to sea and run before the storm. (Even our friends Ingemar and Ann-Britt could see it from their summer house on the hill in Ulebergshamn!) After an hour, it had subsided, but on turning back onto our heading for Sweden, not only was the wind at 26kn, but was on the nose too and we were making 3.5kn at 2000 rpm!
Another discussion followed – again a ‘no brainer’ – to alter course with the wind on our beam for 40nm which would take us to ….
So totally unscheduled, we arrived off Kristiansand at breakfast time to be met by Customs in a rib! All very friendly, but they did come on board to check our passports, ship’s papers and to have a look around. After a passage though, the interior below decks is never in a fit state to receive visitors!
We finally went alongside at the visitors’ marina in perfect weather to plan a short stay in The Land of the Midnight Sun.
The Caledonian Canal – 7th to 12th August 2017
While moored near the western exit of the Crinan Canal (see Heading North …), we watched a yacht about the same size as Pipistrelle, going through the last lock. Crewed by a couple, they had arranged pulleys for their light lines, with both forward and aft mooring lines operated from their cockpit. We replicated this on Pipistrelle, though as we had additional crew, the forward line stayed on the bow. The major advantage is that there is no chafe on the lines they are fed in or out. The other important factor is to use light lines, like the weight of a halyard, instead of normal warps.
On leaving Oban, we headed west across the Firth of Lorn, passing the castle at Duart Point on the Isle of Mull. There is so much that is spectacular about Scotland, and this castle brought back many memories of our passages in 2008. From there we motor sailed NE along the Lynn of Morvern, through the Corran Narrows in pouring rain, and then into Loch Linnhe as far as Fort William. In view of the inclement weather we ditched our plans for entering the Caledonian Canal before it closed for the night at 18.00, and instead picked up a nearby mooring.
Fortunately, the rain had moved on by the following morning, and we arrived at Corpach Sea Lock at 08.00. The gates were open, with handlers on the lock to take our lines. After completing checking in formalities and paying the fee, we were all set. Going through those first locks was straightforward, and the swing bridge had been opened for our arrival.
Thomas Telford was the Scottish engineer responsible for building the Canal, connecting the Scottish east and west coasts and making passages for wooden boats safer than navigating around the Pentland Firth and Cape Wrath. Construction began in 1803, but was not finished until 1822. The Caledonian has a sister in the Göta Canal in Sweden, also constructed by Telford, and a twin in Canada. Corpach is the first of 29 locks on the canal which is 60 miles long, but three lochs or lakes account for two thirds of its length. Once through the first two locks, directly ahead is the dramatic view of Ben Nevis, the highest peak in Britain at 1345m or 4413ft.
Banavie Locks, or Neptune’s Staircase, a flight of 8 locks, the longest and widest staircase in Britain, takes the Canal up 20m. Having two extra crew on board paid dividends, as both Lars and Edvard were ashore walking the lines up the locks, securing them to hooks at each lock. We then motored for 6 miles until we reached the two locks at Gairlochy, and moored up in Loch Lochy for the first night. We were able to walk a fair distance eastwards close to the loch, through the forestry commission woods. Facilities at each of our overnight stops were good, with much needed hot showers, and avoided the need to use the holding tank.
The following day we motored 10 miles through Loch Lochy in gorgeous sunshine, with the mountains around Ben Nevis in the distance. The views in the first half of the Canal are spectacular on both sides.
We then had a short section of canal and another swing bridge to negotiate, before entering Loch Oich, some 4 miles in length, and another swing bridge at the far end, and then meeting our friend and Lock Keeper, Mat Phipps at Cullochy Lock.
Part of the so-called ‘Middle Section’, this has to be the most beautiful of all the locks, with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside, and under Mat’s competent guidance and work, we hope that in time the Caledonian Canal management will recognise this as being one of the best locks on the Canal. We had time to enjoy tea with Mat on the pontoon, but unfortunately, we did not stay overnight, as there are no facilities here, but instead moved on to Kytra Lock, and then moored overnight at the top of the Fort Augustus flight of locks.
Mat’s parents, Gill and Ken, then arrived, having flown up that day, and we all had a very convivial supper ashore. Unlike most of the other stops, Fort Augustus is a tourist attraction, with several cafes, restaurants, craft shops and quaint buildings. Disappointingly, the Museum was closed for refurbishment during the summer months, due to reopen this autumn.
The following day, 9th August, we went down the Fort Augustus flight of five locks and swing bridge in the afternoon, and on into Loch Ness. This most famous of the lochs is just over 20 miles long, contains the greatest volume of fresh water in Britain, and is deeper than the North Sea at 250m.
Unfortunately, we had to motor due to lack of wind, and even then, did not manage to spot the fabled monster! It was a stunning experience with lots to see, including Urquhart Castle which we were to visit overland the next day! In the Canal at the far end we towed a yacht out of the mud where it had somehow got stuck. Manoeuvring Pipistrelle in circles in the narrow Canal was not the easiest of tasks! We moored for the night at pretty Dochgarroch, and all seven of us enjoyed supper at the nearby very popular Oakwood Restaurant.
The 10th was a lay day. Joined by Mat on his day off, Gill and Ken took us out in their hire car to visit Urquhart Castle which dates back to the 13th century, and was in use until c1692. Its history and battles for supremacy between the different clans is superbly portrayed by Historic Environment Scotland, and reminded us of the excellent work the New Zealanders have done to explain their history to visitors. We started off by watching a film explaining the background, which had a spectacular ending when the curtains opened onto the magnificent vista of the castle and Loch Ness. The audience gasped and applauded. A visit is needed to understand the impact! We then explored the castle grounds and the remaining buildings with their stunning views over Loch Ness.
We then stopped at Abriachan Gardens, which also overlook Loch Ness. This is more of a family property where the owners not only have a nursery, but also a large variety of shrubs, plants and flowers displayed in their 4 acre hillside garden with its winding paths. It was an extremely enjoyable visit with plenty of photo opportunities.
Finishing off with a return to the Oakwood Restaurant, it was just as good as the previous night, and provided a fitting end to a great day with Gill, Ken and Mat.
Friday 11th August was Mat’s day off, and we were delighted to welcome him on board for a busman’s holiday helping crew Pipistrelle from Dochgarroch Lock. Showing him locks from a different perspective, we went 5 miles to Caley Marina, near Inverness, where boat parts we had ordered were waiting for us at the chandlery. Surprising was the vast range of what we would term offshore and ocean-going stock – in a canal!
Unfortunately, because of time constraints, Mat left us before we descended the Muirtown flight of four locks, to a swing bridge, and then Seaport Marina, which in fact is still in the Canal. The descent went well, and we moored in the marina, which is within walking distance of a couple of supermarkets and Inverness City Centre.
Our Canal transit ended when we went through the Clachnaharry Works Lock, and then the Sea Lock before berthing at Inverness Marina, a few miles away.
Our six-days in the Caledonian Canal were enjoyable and memorable, the scenery stunning, and an experience we will never forget. As ever, we could have lingered longer. We found each lock special in its own right, enhanced of course by friendly, helpful lock keepers. They assist not only the likes of us, but many holidaymakers who may have hired a canal boat for the first time. The Canal is popular too with kayakers who paddle steadfastly through the lochs and then carry their craft over the locks to bivouac somewhere on route. At the other end of the spectrum in the Middle Section are the big sightseeing boats.
We took the opportunity to explore Inverness, and also to watch the new film ‘Dunkirk’ – interesting from an historical perspective but definitely not in the light entertainment category. Edvard and Lars returned to Sweden from Inverness, we were grateful to them for their help in transiting the Canal. We also carried out essential maintenance, and our next stop was Fraserburgh to collect the boom vang which had been shipped from Falmouth.
The story in the Land of the Purple Heather continues …
… towards the Land of the Purple Heather
(just a reminder that to get full benefit of the photos, just tap or click on each image to enlarge to your liking!)
After three weeks back home, Elaine rejoined Bob and Pipistrelle on 19th July at Howth Marina, flying from Southampton to Dublin, from the warmth of Southern England to the rain on the Emerald Isle!
A quick weather check and conversation with local sailors the following morning confirmed there was no time to linger in Howth if we were to catch the ‘window’ and start heading northwards. So we slipped our lines at lunchtime and set off towards Bangor, Northern Ireland from where it would be ideal to cross to Scotland. At a distance of 90nm, Bangor was just an overnight sail away. All began well if a little damp with a couple of rainbows thrown in, and of course there was plenty of shipping around in the Irish Sea on our night watches. The wind and heavy rain came up on the approach to Bangor early the next morning, with visibility of about 100 m, so we anchored in Ballyholme Bay, preferring to enter the nearby marina in calmer conditions the following day.
We stayed for a couple of days and did a bit of local exploration on foot around what was once a popular Victorian seaside resort and still an attractive town, but unfortunately did not have time to venture into Belfast as we needed to press on northwards.
Judging the right time to leave Bangor on a favourable tide and get round the Mull of Kintyre with its fierce current in our favour demanded some thought. We wanted to get to Ardminish on the island of Gigha in a day, a new destination for us and the most southerly island of the Inner Hebrides. Once safely at anchor, we both agreed how delightful it was to be back in the land of the purple heather after eight years, despite or because of the weather!
We were fortunate to walk around the local Achamore Gardens on a bright, rainless day. Unfortunately, now no longer manicured, they are still colourful and have belonged to the local community since 2002. The house is separately owned and currently for sale for anyone who would like a 14 bedroomed mansion in a peaceful location for the price of an expensive flat in London.
From Gigha we crossed to Craighouse on Jura, and moored in the shadow of the small whisky distillery and hotel where we had dinner one evening. Here we reminisced about our two visits to the island as part of the Classic Malts Cruise eight years ago when we visited the distillery and enjoyed a private ‘nosing’ or tasting on board Pipistrelle.
Working our way north, we had a lively sail to Crinan where we anchored in the protected bay just west of the Canal entrance and used the dinghy to get ashore. Watching the yachts in the sea lock gave us a few pointers and tips for handling Pipistrelle in our upcoming transit of the Caledonian Canal, and walking along the scenic towpath we saw just how narrow the Canal is in places. Highly recommended comes the Seafood Bar of the Crinan Hotel with its fresh seafood dishes and cosy atmosphere overlooking the Canal.
And so on up to Oban Marina on the island of Kerrera. A fairly tricky sail taking the inshore route which we did, weighing anchor at dawn to get the current through the Dorus Mor, on up between Scarba and Luing, past Fladda, the island of Seil and the Sound of Kerrera to the marina opposite the town of Oban. With precision navigation required most of the way, the tablet showing our position on the Navionics chart was firmly in its holder in the cockpit.
What a friendly welcome we received on Kerrera! The marina has changed hands since we were last there, new owners having taken over just four months previously. They are succeeding in turning it around from neglect. The team is multi-talented, from being on reception, to driving the complementary ferry shuttle to get us from the island to the North Pier in town, taking lines for arriving yachts, working behind the bar in the small restaurant or waiting at table in the evening, which all gives it a family feel.
As with the Seafood Bar at Crinan, we followed the recommendation of sailing friends to have a meal at the Seafood Temple in Oban. We weren’t disappointed! Within walking distance of the town, this tiny family run restaurant is located in what used to be the park pavilion (aka facilities!) with glorious sea views and serves fresh top quality Scottish seafood – a delicious treat! As was the pre-dinner drink we enjoyed at the Manor House Hotel.
The Classic Malts Cruise started here with a reception at the distillery and parade of sail around Oban Harbour. This time we booked a distillery tour, a tasting and a few purchases once Edvard and Lars had joined us.
To look back on our Scottish adventures of 2008 go to:
The Mull Circumnavigation and of course, most importantly
On 20th June Elaine flew out from the UK to the Azores to join Bob for a 10 day holiday – no sailing involved!
With Pipistrelle in Ponta Delgada Marina, it seemed the ideal opportunity to focus on exploring the city and the island of Sao Miguel, the largest in the group.
We had both sailed in the archipelago before, both of us on separate Overlord trips (Elaine 15 years ago, Bob a little earlier) though neither of us could remember the Ponta Delgada marina or town. Probably because the ‘new’ marina hadn’t been built back then, and our edition of the Atlantic Islands pilot book still had it marked as ‘planned’.
What makes these Portuguese islands in the middle of the Atlantic so special? Beautiful towns, lush countryside, rugged coastlines, stunning views over lakes and craters, a pleasant climate influenced by the Gulf Stream and whale watching all contribute to the Azores’ reputation as a sought after destination today, but the first landing was in the 15th century, bringing a cargo of cattle. For more about the islands, go to www.azores.com.
Ponta Delgada is the administrative capital with a population of about 64000. Behind the modern avenue running along the shoreline is a plethora of narrow streets with ornately decorated pavements, numerous churches, the 18th century city gates, as well as a number of interesting small shops and hostelries, of which more later. The end of June also marked a series of free evening concerts in the square outside the Town Hall, one of which was a group performing traditional and melancholic Fado music. An interesting experience, with fascinating lighting effects.
Within easy walking distance is the ‘Jardim do Palacio de Sant’Ana’, the mid 19th century palace with its park is used as the regional government seat. Another botanical garden to add to our list with its lake, and curious trees.
Further afield, we chose a day promising sunshine and cloudless skies to hire a car and drive up to the Sete Cidades with its green and blue lakes. We were rewarded with breathtaking views. Well worth the effort of an early start, getting up there by 08.30! The roads on our route were lined with beautiful wild hydrangea and agapanthus, taking us past fields with lush grazing for herds of dairy cattle. No wonder the islands are famous for their cheeses, and milk is exported to mainland Portugal.
An afternoon stop at the Lagoa do Fogo gave us the opportunity to admire the panorama and to have a walk – no saunter with a 1 in 2 descent from the car park to the lake and a similar climb back up! Time to wend our way back to the marina and put our feet up!
Taking advantage of the good weather, we decided to extend the rental on the car and explore the eastern part of the island over three days, heading initially to the spa town of Furnas with its famous hot springs, and Terra Nostra Botanical Park with the geothermal pool at its centre. Having taken our bathing gear and tested the water temperature (hot), we ventured in to the murky, muddy brown pool before throngs of visitors arrived. Despite the colour, bathing was bliss, even if it did take copious amounts of fresh water to shower mud off body and bathers afterwards. Good for the soul!
As always, we found the garden enchanting. Dating back to the late 18th century and extensively renovated over time, the grounds boast collections of endemic flora, ferns, camellia, plus winding paths, bridges, grottoes, lakes and above all tranquillity.
With the smell of sulphur leading you there, at the other end of town are hot springs. At 24 hours’ notice, you can even order a whole meal cooked using volcanic heat or steam. We preferred a more conventional lunch!
Then came the real treat of the stay – a last minute booking for two nights at a secluded hotel on the south coast! At The Caloura Resort we spent a whole day relaxing, lying by the pool, swimming and sunbathing.
On that note, there are many public salt water swimming pools that are obviously extremely popular on hot sunny days. Not so in the rain!
Not only are the Azores renowned for their dairy products, seafood and rich stews. Perhaps surprisingly, pineapple is a locally grown tropical fruit and available at the indoor fruit and vegetable market in Ponta Delgada, but far more expensive than pineapple we’ve bought in other exotic places.
Wine has been produced on the islands and exported for centuries. At reasonable prices even in restaurants, we sampled both white and rose, and bought a few bottles for the Pipistrelle cellar at a small wine shop that brought us firmly into the 21st century with a couple of its labels!
Recommended by Elaine’s niece, the Azores Wine Company’s ‘volcanic’ offering was a must have! The winemaker is the very same oenologist who makes wine for the Quinta de Sant’Ana vineyard near Lisbon.
Last but not least, the Ocean Cruising Club’s Port Officer for Ponta Delgada has to be mentioned. Alberto Pacheco was most helpful to us by email before Pipistrelle arrived in Sao Miguel and in person while we were there. He is the charming, friendly Vice President of the Yacht Club, a font of knowledge about the island and local trades and speaks extremely good English.
See also Gaelic Greetings!
Or Azores to Kinsale and Dublin
On 30th June, it was comings and goings at Ponta Delgada airport, with Elaine departing (see Amazing Azores post) on the same flight on which Martin Goodchild arrived. It’s not the first time we have experienced a situation like that, and there was enough time for us all to meet briefly, before Elaine had to go through passport control.
We came by Martin through the Gerrard’s Cross Sailing Association. Many thanks to Stuart Gaunt for sending out a detailed email to members explaining we were looking for crew. Unfortunately for Martin there was a weather window to leave the next day, 1st July, but maybe there will be an opportunity in future for us all to explore and enjoy the Azores to the full.
After final provisioning at the market, we set sail after lunch and headed to the western end of Sao Miguel where we altered course for the Emerald Isle and Kinsale. As if by magic the breeze filled in, we were able to turn off the engine and sail.
The wind lasted all night, but eased in time for breakfast, so we were then back to motoring. We then enjoyed 3 days of good sailing accompanied by dolphins that we both enjoyed watching. The wind continued to vary, so we did have to resort to motoring every now and again. But the big plus factor was enjoying the company of whales for three days in succession, one of them was a sperm whale, one unidentified, and then pilot whales, but we also enjoyed dolphins that swam with us for a considerable time, and also performed with some spectacular jumps clear of the waves.
We arrived at Kinsale at 03.45 on 10th July, and anchored in the river, before catching up on sleep. The passage was 1152nm in 8 days and 11 hours.
Later that morning we prepared Pipistrelle for berthing alongside in the marina, and then visiting Kinsale YC, who were very welcoming and helpful. Since our last visit in 2008 the clubhouse has been extensively modernised, and while we were there, cadets were being taught to sail their Toppers on a daily basis.
We were delighted to find that the craic had returned to Kinsale in the form of live music, singing and dancing, which we enjoyed on two nights ashore, along with some excellent food. Alas, all good things have to come to an end, and with another favourable weather window we prepared to leave on 13th July. Customs finally caught up with us as we refuelled, and wanted to inspect down below with a dog. Big reminder for next time. Dog wears covers over its paws. Handler sweeps up all hairs left by dog!
We had great sailing towards the Irish Sea, and were astonished to watch humpback whales perform close to us. After 18 hours we were able to round Carnsore Point and inside Tuskar Rock, to anchor off Rosslare Harbour at 06.40. We stayed on board, had a relaxing day and a good night’s sleep.
We left the next morning at 06.00 for Howth, just to the north of the entrance to Dublin Harbour. We chose to take the inshore passage which is buoyed the whole way, and anchored off the yacht club at 13.30, before then waiting for the tide the next morning and taking Pipistrelle alongside in the marina.
We were incredibly impressed with the yacht club which is managed superbly well, and the facilities are excellent. They were also running a cadet fortnight, but here the kids were under control, no mess in the changing rooms, boats were left neatly so that one barely noticed them, and the emphasis was on fun, and not just sailing! Well done Howth YC.
Immediately outside the YC there is a fabulous cliff walk to the south and east as far as the Baily Lighthouse, marking the headland and entrance to Dublin Harbour, where one is walking along a narrow footpath and in many places a sheer drop of over a hundred feet to the clear waters of the Irish Sea below. We shared this with a large number of tourists, including many Poles who make up a big community in and around Dublin. In a way it was lovely to return to the private oasis of the YC, and to peace and quiet!
We managed an evening in Dublin, and here the craic scene had changed, so we finished up getting in a taxi and being taken to the Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Dublin, where the music and singing started just as we arrived. Another good night out, which left one evening on board with home cooked food before sadly Martin had to leave for home.
Bob was left with 6 hours to clean and tidy Pipistrelle before welcoming Elaine at the airport!!
Many thanks Martin for sharing this passage with Bob, and we look forward to welcoming you on board again in the not too distant future!
See also Gaelic Greetings!
As so often, our progress through the water is far faster than our progress with the blog, with which we’re way behind the pace. With many hundreds of sea miles under her keel since the last post, Pipistrelle is now in Oban Marina, Kerrera. We were last here nine years ago and are thoroughly enjoying being back in the inner seas off the West Coast of Scotland.
Still to come are three articles to bring us up to date.
They won’t necessarily be published in that order!